Combine blueberries and sugar in a large glass or ceramic bowl. Mash lightly to release some juices from the berries. Cover the bowl and place it in the refrigerator overnight or for up to 2 days.
When you’re ready to make the jam, pull the bowl out of the fridge. Zest and juice the lemon and set aside.
Pour fruit mixture and lemon juice into a 10- to 12-inch stainless-steel skillet, pot, or enameled cast-iron Dutch oven. Pick something that allows for more surface area on the heat, and bonus points for a pot with a base that’s smaller at the bottom than at the top since it helps guide evaporation faster. Turn up the heat to medium and cook for a few minutes to dissolve any remaining sugar granules.
Turn up the heat to high and bring to a boil. Note the time. It will take around 10 minutes of rapid boiling for this volume of jam to reach a soft set. Use a potato masher (for chunkier preserves) or immersion blender (for a smoother jam) to smash or puree the berries as they heat up. Stir periodically to keep mixture from sticking to the bottom of the pan. Remove the pan from heat when you think it might be set. (See Bubble Watch section at right.)
Test your set with the Frozen Spoon Test at right.)
When the consistency of your jam is to your liking, add the lemon zest and gently swirl it in to combine without disturbing the jam too much.
Ladle into glass jars and allow to cool to room temperature. Place jars in the refrigerator and eat or gift within 6 months.