Mediterranean Approach Yields Fresh Fare
Photos by Yael Dolev
When I became naturalized citizen, I was grateful for my welcome to this country. I was eager to assimilate, and to tone down my Mediterranean temperament. But one obsession I did not give up: MY FOOD.
Coming from Israel, my natural, almost automatic habit is to crave a range of fresh, colorful, wholesome, real foods. While avoiding spending time that I cannot spare on preparations, I improvise daily to create simple, tasty, nourishing meals.
In time I found that the nutrition authorities here call my habits the “Mediterranean Food Pyramid.” I discarded that idea, as I don’t eat any pyramid; I just eat good, tasty food. And there is no ideology behind the way I eat. I simply follow the manner of eating practiced by my ancestors for thousands of years. Their behavior came to be as a result of poverty, scarcity of land and unpredictable weather that often produced a water shortage. Hence, variety and freshness were the elements of their diet.
But these foodways were also inspired by societies that developed along a sea that supplies fresh fish, seafood and refreshing breeze. The variety reflects all the unpredictability of a fisherman’s life. And, this cuisine was the creation of ancient civilizations, diverse in religions and cultures, which shared one sea, fought each other over traditions and lands but also exchanged goods, customs and foods. They grew olives and vineyards, had a few goats for yogurt and cheese, and ate dates and figs for dessert. Nowadays, nutrition experts claim that their guidelines are similar to the Mediterranean Diet. Except that their references are still loaded with calorie counts, number of servings, vitamins and minerals and, therefore, stress. In the Mediterranean we don’t eat calories or vitamins; we eat FOOD—real, delicious, fresh food, rich with herbs and nuts, accompanied with the joy of cooking and the love for good food.
So how do I keep Mediterranean habits in the Berkshires?
Very simple. Farmers’ markets provide the same concept as the Mediterranean area: Eat fresh food joyfully, with all the senses, according to the catch of the day. The markets offer me the Mediterranean experience: I never know what to expect; which vender will be there this week? What will they carry this time? Is it already the season of…?
My excitement is that of a kid who expects his birthday presents. As improvising is in the Mediterranean spirit—indeed, a certain degree of chaos is welcome—I never plan ahead what I am going to purchase in the marketplace. (Just don’t tell this to my students, whom I always coach to make a shopping list.)
I start my visit to the market, whether at Wild Oats in Williamstown, not far from where I live, or the North Adams or Walloomsac Farmers’ Market in Bennington. I wander around, researching available supplies, breathing in smells, looking at colors and greeting familiar farmers. I invent a menu on the spot, improvising recipes in my head, according to what is on hand. Sometimes, I even take out my small notepad—yes, I still use pencil and a paper for that matter—and I create a new recipe.
As the core of my meals is produce, I start with the vegetables: greens like kale or chard to sauté, some roots to make a stew or to stuff with the greens. Then I choose Mediterranean’s “must haves” like, peppers, eggplants, zucchinis and tomatoes, and decide how I am going to cook them: in stew, as stuffed vegetables, a slightly stirred ratatouille, or as summer “shakshuka” (the Mediterranean version of huevos rancheros).
Now I check the fruits, maybe berries with goat yogurt for dessert as the combination of sweet and sour is refreshing, or watermelon with feta cheese for a salad. And thinking of salads means I need fresh greens….
Then I need lots of herbs to add to my recipes: parsley and mint, sage, basil and tarragon. And, of course, I need onions and many garlic heads, as there is no Mediterranean recipe without garlic—well, maybe the dessert.
Last comes fish, meat or cheese, that in my tradition is the decoration of a dish and not its main component. Now I am ready to buy. While shopping, I still modify my list according to the farmers’ recommendations. “I picked fresh broad beans today” or “Take the purple kohlrabi as it is sweeter than the green” are remarks I always welcome.
Finally, I buy freshly baked whole bread and happily go home to cook. I have everything I need for my Mediterranean meals, except for the lemons and the olive oil.
RECIPES
