Waste Not, Want Not

Email
ILLUSTRATIONS BY CHARMAINE KOEHLER-LODGE

How to make the most of your produce

Perhaps it is because my parents were Depression-era children, but even before I learned that 40% of food in the United States goes to waste, I always found it sinful to throw food away. I try to shop mindfully to minimize such action, and even to garden accordingly (after all, does anyone really need four zucchini plants and what they will produce?)

However, no matter how waste conscious I have become, I still find myself working hard to use everything that fills my produce bin. And even when I use things efficiently, the trimmings add up. Isn’t there anything I can do with the green tops of leeks, or the remainders of basil, parsley, and fresh herbs—a portion of which flavored last night’s dinner—or the trimmings of broccoli and asparagus that go into either the trash or a compost pile? Additionally, between the price of produce and the energy required to grow it and ship it, this waste seems wrong, economically and ecologically.

All of this has led me to attempt to use more of what I bring into the house. The shavings of asparagus are sautéed with butter and used as a filling for an omelet; leftover sautéed cabbage becomes the base for a risotto; and chicken carcasses, leek tops, softening carrots, and fennel stems are simmered for stock.

My search for ways to use these items has taken me from the recipes of Marcella Hazan to the pickling tips of Edna Lewis. I find satisfaction in being more respectful of our foodways and what they provide. As I create salsa verde from leftover herbs to top grilled meat or to toss with shrimp and pasta; turn watermelon rinds into sweet and savory pickles; combine sautéed diced broccoli stems with anchovies, garlic, parmesan, and orecchiette; or add softened leek tops to a quiche or combine them with ricotta to fill ravioli, I find that this effort benefits not only my wallet and the environment, but my palate as well.

Sautéed Leek Tops
These leek tops can be used in many ways: with a nice soft cheese to fill an omelet; combined with ham or bacon and eggs to fill a quiche; blended with ricotta to fill ravioli; or puréed with some water and pan drippings to accompany a pork roast.
Check out this recipe
Orecchiette with Broccoli Stems, Anchovy, and Garlic
Based loosely on a recipe from Marcella Hazan, this recipe calls for blanching peeled broccoli stems before dicing and sautéing them, but you can just cook them in the oil with the anchovies until tender if preferred. I like the softened texture that blanching provides as well as the umami flavor of the anchovies melted into the olive oil at low heat, but both are optional. I have come to prefer the stems of broccoli to the buds we typically eat, but they too can be blanched briefly and added to this pasta, if desired.
Check out this recipe
Salsa Verde
This Italian sauce, most often used to accompany roasted meat or fish, is also wonderful tossed with pasta and parmesan. It is traditionally made with parsley, but arugula, radish tops, sorrel, dill, tarragon, and basil all bring something to the mix or can replace the parsley entirely. And the use of anchovies and capers can be modified to meet your own taste as well.
Check out this recipe
Watermelon Rind Pickles
This southern classic has more variations in flavorings than there were states in the Confederacy. I like to use crystallized and fresh ginger, chili flakes, and star anise, but cinnamon sticks, mace, cloves, and cardamom seeds—and even a chili pepper or two—are not uncommon additions.
Check out this recipe
#pf-body #pf-author { font-size: 1rem; margin: .25rem .05rem 1rem; text-transform: uppercase; font-weight: 900; }