Next to tomato season, corn season might just be my favorite. Crisp sweet kernels dripping with butter and a good sprinkling of crunchy salt is dinner to me. Or at least the first course. In high season, I want to devote all my attention to corn. If a steaming platter of buttered fresh corn is served at the same time as the main event, the other stuff is ignored and becomes cold. Corn deserves its own event.
Corn can also star in other dishes, like this Corn Chowder, which is creamy, silky, and just about pure corn, except for its snappy accent of cherry tomatoes and scallions, taking it to another level. The Corn and Black Bean Salad is also known as “Texas caviar,” and you can serve it as a salad alongside a grilled pork chop or chicken sausages, or with tortilla chips for a potluck. The Corn and Blueberry Muffins, while they’re best with sweet, fresh in-season corn, can also be made with frozen corn. They’re wonderful for breakfast, as a snack, or with a bowl of chili. They’re mildly sweet, with the blueberries adding a burst of summer goodness. You will love them.
When purchasing corn: Check that the husks are green and fresh, the silk is lightly colored, and maybe a bit moist, and the stalk end appears fresh, not brown or very dry. Ears should feel full, heavy for their size, and have kernels all the way to the tip. Don’t peel back an ear and toss it back on the pile; it’s not fair to the farmer or the next buyer who will also reject it.
To boil corn: Unless you’re cooking for a crowd, forget that huge pot of boiling water. A couple of inches of boiling water in a wide pot or even less water in a deep skillet will cook the corn just as well. Add the ears to the boiling water, cover, reduce the heat a little, and cook 2 to 3 minutes, until just tender. If you’re not eating the corn right away, don’t leave it in the water for more than about 10 minutes, to avoid soggy ears.
To grill corn: Pull down the husks but don’t remove them, take off the silk, and pull the husks back up to enclose the ears. Then grill about 10 minutes, turning often, until the kernels are tender. For a smokier effect, put husked, oiled or buttered, salted ears right on a grill and cook, turning often, until lightly charred and tender. I never soak corn before grilling because I always forget and it doesn’t seem to matter. Even simpler: Butter and salt husked ears, wrap each well in foil, and grill until kernels are tender, 8 or so minutes. Less muss, no burned husks.
To freeze corn: It must first be cooked before freezing to inactivate the natural enzymes. Here’s where you need that big pot of water and fresh-as-can-be corn. Bring the pot of water to a boil and have a large bowl of ice water nearby. Husk ears and remove the silk. Rinse. Blanch in boiling water for 4 minutes. Immediately put blanched ears in ice water to cool, then drain and pat dry. Cut the kernels from the cobs and pack them in zip-top freezer bags in amounts you will use at one time (say 2 cups). Seal and freeze to use within about 10 months.
